Wednesday, Nov 24th - 30th

Greetings!

Being about as offline as one could be in this world has been strangely off-worldly.  Here in Lusitania Bay, Macquarie Island, sitting in the seventh floor library on the bow of the Heritage Adventurer, we are offshore of one of four islands at latitude 54 degrees south on earth.  Two of the others are on the other side of the planet, and the fourth is the next island we plan to visit.  And a million king penguins are huddled on the beach at the base of the only piece of the crust of the earth ever thrust above the surface of the sea.

For the past week, we've used this 8,445-ton refurbished Icebreaker to visit some other islands on the way here.  Each had a slightly different mix of flora and fauna, all attracting this shipload of environmental experts, writers, photographers, and lecturers.  Hosted by a combination of the Australian and New Zealand government officials, and the ship's family owner/operator (Russ Family), we've enjoyed multi-star accommodations and services,   The days and nights have been long and cold.  The conversations have been deep and stimulating.  The furious fifties (latitudes) have produced their famous treacherous winds and seas.

We're joined during the last month of this trip by our friend Barbara Tomin, a hometown soulmate for the past forty-five years.  We are extremely happy to be able to share these sights and sounds with her, and gain from her extensive birding curiosity.

The following is a collection of thoughts assembled from the past day, to be amplified by some photos taken.  The lack of Internet access has kept both their posting, and the uploading of photos, from occurring so far.  We hope to complete those tasks as we end the trip.    

Zodiac Adventuring

The Process of 125 adventurers being prepared to leave the ship, be ferried in zodiacs across the sea to an island, get onto an island, walk around. All day through tall grass and mud, leave the island, be ferried in zodiacs back to the ship, and board the ship - is not without great detail involving attention to precision clothing, many layers, uniform equipment, and intense bio-security precautions.  It’s only slightly less complicated when you don’t get on an island, and spend some hours in the. Zodiac inspecting coastal seaweed, rocks, cliffs, caves, and hanging gardens. 

Covid Restrictions

One of the common conditions cited by travelers in their answers to where they’ve been lately is to provide us with their experiences with Covid.  Like us, many have had to postpone trips, and the stories of stranded travelers are as scary as ours.

Bird and Marine Mammal Experts

Among the five kinds of common sea mammals, only whales, seals and sea lions can be found this close to the Antarctic.  Polar bears, sea otters, and manatees aren’t here.  We’ve seen no whales, but plenty of seals and sea lions.  Yesterday,, we ran a gauntlet of young male New Zealand Hooker sea lions vying for dominance and a harem of their female mates.

Serious Hikers

Anyone wanting evidence of the abilities of elderly hikers need only listen to the recent experiences of our shipmates.  Everywhere there seem are places to hike on this planet would seem to have been conquered listening to the stories told at meal times.

American Politics

As two of only three Americans on board, we have received plenty of understanding from others about the anguish we have felt concerning our Presidential politics over the past five years.  Cautious relief and hope are being extended to us, as well as genuine joy over the positive current state of Australian and New Zealand’s own political state of affairs.

Reading, Geology

The ship has a beautiful and extensive library at the bow in which to sit and read hundreds of volumes of books written in no small part by our shipmates.  Each day, there appears on screens the photos taken by some of those on board, rivaling the best published in these living room books.  

Briefings, Lectures, and Workshops

Each day, whenever we’re not off the ship, we’re encouraged to attend a variety of mandatory and optional gatherings in comfortable amphitheater space to listen to what’s coming up, what’s just happened, or what one needs to know in order to understand what is being seen.  Almost everyone on board could present great topics, and write a few staff and guests are doing so.

Clothing

I’ll bet there isn’t a cold weather outfit in any of the top adventure stores that isn’t on this ship.  It’s like a fashion show, featuring gear and clothing to attempt any outing.

Food

We have had an excellent array of served and buffeted meals from an army of kitchen and dining room staff.  Short meals Ian a bistro on one floor, full meals on another, and a bar which always seems open.